Catching up: Cappadocia

In the middle of Turkey, Cappadocia is home to some of the most bizarre rock formations in the world. Called "fairy chimneys" but often resembling something more phallic than bedtime story, these geologic oddities have been home to everyone from the Hittites and early Christians (who also moved underground) to present-day Turks and tourists. We stayed in Goreme in what was once a church, carved into a cliff-side and improved with electricity and cable tv.

Goreme is home to an open air museum made up of a former cave city including homes, gathering places, and churches.

I don't know if you can really see it, but there's snow on the ground! A number of the churches still have their frescoes more or less intact.

From Goreme, we visited the nearby underground city in Kaymakli. Begun by Hittites and expanded by early Christians, the underground city is over 350 feet deep and could hold as many as 3,000 people for as long as 6 months. There were family quarters, food storage facilities, laundry rooms, kitchens, churches, and security systems all dug around a single well. This underground city was connected to another one roughly 5 miles away. While we were there only the first five stories were accessible because the porous sandstone walls of the lower floors had collapsed. The rainwater dripping from the walls around us wasn't the most comforting sight.

We also visited Pasabagi home to Cappadocia's most famous collection of chimneys. We had the place to ourselves until a tour bus of Japanese tourists arrived. When their guide announced we were American we got a big round of applause. Go figure.


Our favorite meals in Goreme were served up by a Turkish man who spent 15 years in Spain as a Flamenco dancer. Pides and Efes next to a wood-burning stove are the best end to cold days.

Our last night in town we hiked through the so-called Pigeon Valley where we totally alone among the best formations and dwelling clusters of the trip. A great end to a really interesting place.
That was a month ago, so I've got my work cut out for me. Although since my flash drive got stolen and I lost my copy of my safari pix the job of catching up has gotten considerably simpler.

xoxo Jessie